Honda CBR600
Serious money buys serious speed. And there's not much more serious than an old Honda CBR600. At this end of the CBR market we ain't talking immaculate, low mileage motorcycles. For £2000 to £2500, we're talking 50,000 miles plus, faded paint, floppy suspension and dodgy brakes.
Why bother? Well, the engine's basically strong, there are loads of relatively cheap bits in breakers and the CBR is one of those rare Japanese motorcycles where the whole adds up to more than the sum of the parts. It's also tremendously fast and has chassis dynamics that inspire much highway insanity. Thus some effort's worthwhile to sort out an old one.
The worst case scenario is buying one that's been raced, and in the past an awful lot were abused on the track. Racing equates to constant running over 10,000 revs, which equates to a shortened engine life. Usually, ex-racers were well past their sell-by dates by the time they were put on the private market; a combination of knackered engine components and bent frames turning them into complete dogs.
Look for thin non-standard plastic, wired in bolts, excess engine vibration, smoky exhausts and rattly engines. Some reckon that the camchain tensioner is dodgy but they often last for 30-35000 miles, which in Honda terms is close to a miracle!
Pistons or valves are equally likely to go; the crank's tough; the gearbox wasn't brilliant when new in early models - mileage did nothing to transform its precision. Notchiness and missed changes are normal on high milers, but jumping out of gear's bad news.
One of the disturbing aspects of CBR ownership is that many people didn't bother with frequent oil changes, leaving it for 3000 or even 6000 miles. This seems prevalent amongst younger owners and is bad news for bikes that are used mostly in town for short journeys - the oil quickly emulsifies, loses a lot of its lubrication abilities.
This does not mean that every old CBR600 is an aged dog about to expire. Some engines can happily shrug off the antics of several fast owners and 75000 miles of highway abuse. You do need a decent bit of road to speed test them, as the majority of the power's at the top end of rev range and any fall off in urge's most noticeable in the taller gears.
The electrical system's also a bit marginal, both the charging and ignition system susceptible to burn-out at high miles. Replacement batteries often last for less than a year and it's not an electrical system that takes kindly to non-standard components. So check for bodging, odd components and burnt fuse boxes.
Suspension mods should be welcomed. Early CBR's had marginal stuff before it had a chance to wear and a mere 20,000 miles left it floppy. However, the steel frame's able to hide a lot of weakness in the suspension - anything that wobbles or weaves badly almost certainly has either a bent frame or forks, or both! Straightened CBR frames aren't recommended but easily hidden under the plastic. Again, thin plastic's a clue that the bike has been down the road.
Finding a good 'un almost invariably involves many false starts. As mentioned, there's a lot of tosh about. But the way the CBR runs is so stunning that it's worth a bit of time and effort to find a useable example.
Yamaha FZR600
Pretty much all that was said about the CBR applies to the FZR. What you lose in outright power's made up for in less mass and better handling, though comfort suffers and many long distance riders ended up close to agony. The Yam looks better when it goes naked and the plastic's dumped, lacking the integrated wholeness of the Honda.
The FZR has a tougher top end than the CBR, usually suffers from gearbox and clutch maladies. Engines run anywhere between 50,000 and 100,000 miles, depending both on the frequency of oil changes and the degree of thrashing.
The chassis was more often the cause of write-offs. This isn't to say that it was dangerous but that in accidents things got way out of line - bent frame, cracked wheels and ruined plastic in relatively minor shunts. Thus engine spares are available in reasonable quantities.
The brakes may've been a contributory factor in causing accidents. Newish examples were fine, though not the best in the business, but caliper corrosion and disc warping combined to take the bite out of them. FZR600's with FZR1000 front ends are not unknown. There's not much that can be done for old disc brakes, though Goodridge hose helps a little, other than run to the nearest breaker to hand over a stack of dosh for something newer.
For on the road kicks, out on the edge of the performance envelope, the FZR resonances deep into the soul to an even greater extent than the CBR. Everywhere else - motorways, towns, etc - it's a pain, down to a poor riding position. The engine actually has more low end grunt than the other 600's, at the price of running out of puff at a mere 140mph - on UK roads, no great loss.
The used market offers lots of choice even at the low end of the price range. £2000 to £2500 buys something with 30-40,000 miles, faded cosmetics, tough engine and dodgy transmission or suspension. It's also easy to blow that kind of money on something that's been seized up, crashed and cheaply repaired, or merely thrashed into the ground. There's a great deal of difference in appearance between one which has merely the faded patina of time and use, and one with the tell-tale scars of highway abuse. Because decent used motors are available, it's not a bad idea to buy a cheap FZR with a nice chassis and blown motor.
Suzuki GSX600F
The GSX was always the cheap baby of the replica class, reflected by the fact that for £2000 to £2500 it's possible to buy quite a nice example. The reason for this is that they were off the pace compared to the CBR and FZR - when the going got fast they were left behind. However, for most of the time for most of the people, even within the context of speeding, they were more than fast enough.
Even better, they tended to attract the more sensible type of owner, who might even have been convinced they were made for touring; weren't thrashed to within an inch of their life and weren't used much on the race track. That all makes finding a good used one fairly easy.
The basic toughness of the oil and air cooled motor helps such stratagems along. As does its lower state of tune. Camchains around 40k, burnt out clutches and the odd ruined rectifier are the major areas of concern. Few seem to have done more than 60,000 miles, so ultimate longevity's a great unknown but there seems no reason why the engine won't run for over a 100,000 miles.
The chassis is less proficient. Whilst the wrap-around steel frame's okay, has reasonable geometry and good support for the steering head and swinging arm bearings, the suspension was a bit mushy from new and the discs weren't going to win any prizes for longevity. Both can turn out expensive to upgrade.
It's fairly easy to see when one's been crashed as the plastic cracks up in mild meetings with the tarmac. Any aftermarket stuff tends to be thin and vibrate fiercely during redline sorties. Forks and wheels have been successfully repaired - at least for long enough to get the bike out of the dealers. Take some time to suss what the real wheels and forks actually look like, that way it's easy to spot ringers.
Riding a GSX, with say twenty thou on the clock, turns up a lot of looseness in the suspension (if it's still stock) that has the bike waving around like the tyres are deflating, though even under hard acceleration it still stays more or less on line.
Tightened up suspension really transforms the feel of the beast, which then shows up its limits as a scraping undercarriage; an occurrence when running cheap tyres that often results in an off-road flight of fancy. Such fun making a mockery out of the bike's reputation for being bland.
The appearance's much harder to take. It's not that bad from the saddle, but parked up alongside a CBR600 it's easy to see why the latter's the best selling 600, despite its much higher price. Availability of GSX600F's in neat shape (even with modded suspension) is good, better than the other 600's; well worth a look.
Kawasaki GPX600
The ZZR600's the more obvious choice of 600 but ones in this price range, other than write-offs or people trying to sell something they've just stolen, are impossible to find. That leaves the GPX, reintroduced in '94 as a cheap way of going fast.
Like the GSX600F it has a somewhat odd chassis and an amusing engine. The GPX at least sports better suspension (at least when new, it does go off with age) and a set of disc brakes that have more feel even if they ain't quite in stoppie country. One area Kawasaki failed to change from the original incarnation was the sixteen inch wheels, though it's hard to understand why when they sorted out that particular nasty on the GPZ500S.
Once hot, sixteen inchers are now held in disrepute. The main charge against them's that the front wheel can snap away without any warning on spilt diesel or bald tyres. This is especially true on worn Jap tyres.
The GPX hides any such nastiness exceedingly well and bunging on a decent set of European tyres may remove such nervousness completely. Or not. Not many GPX600's have been sold and few have turned up in breakers, so maybe this time around it's a better deal.
It's amusing to note that such an old tech 600 weighs in at less than 400 lbs (dry) and that it spins through the corners rapidly enough to have modern replica riders wondering what the hell was hitting them. 85 horses equates to 145mph, so no easy way to shake off the old thing. It needs to be screamed through the sometimes notchy gearbox to really fly but that's just as true of a CBR600.
Old GPX600 engines could run to 40-50,000 miles before the camchain went, and some had valve or piston problems around that time. More likely, though, to burn out the ignition units. Kawasaki usually do a lot of minor development work on their engines, so there's no reason to think that the latest model is going to be any worse, probably last even better.
There are very few early GPX's around, a lot ended up in breakers making the spares situation reasonable. After thirty thou, expect corroded calipers, rotted exhaust and fading paint - these bikes are made down to a budget and costs have to be saved somewhere.
£2000 won't buy anything recent but £2500, in a private sale, will secure a 25000 mile '94 model. Dealers want an extra £500, which is pretty silly money. A 1990 GPX for £1750 ain't a bad buy as long as there's less than 30,000 miles on the clock and the cosmetics are okay.
Honda CBR1000
Huge, often ungainly and not the most reliable speed tool in the world, but 130 horses ain't to be sniffed at. Early CBR's did the Honda camchain tap dance at as little as 25000 miles; neglect of which could easy lead to knackered valves or cams.
This dodginess, though by no means an universal affliction, means that early bikes are something of a bargain. A 1987 or '88 model for around two grand has to be good value - as long as you're old enough to afford the insurance or don't mind riding illegally.
Handling is mainly limited by the excessive heft, close to 600lbs when all fueled up and ready to go. Wide A-road and motorways can be demolished with few worries but the tighter stuff requires recourse to the cut and thrust style of riding so beloved of seventies superbikes owners. Suspension ages not at all well, chassis bearings are often short-lived and the brakes, either through caliper seizure or disc thinness, only serve to make the rider feel close to death.
These are all things to look for when inspecting an aged example. Plastic fade or cracking are signs of high miles - many CBR's ended up as merely summer toys for the rich and despite being nearly ten years old are still in fine fettle with less than thirty thou under their wheels.
The bottom end of the motor's much tougher than the top - the only things worth noting are the natural notchiness of the gearbox and if the clutch's slipping it's probably because the owner's a wheelie merchant (and should be given a good kicking for trying to ruin a perfectly good piece of machinery).
The top end can become well dodgy after 50,000 miles (before that if it's run on a dead tensioner), anything from pistons through to cams going, but it's easy enough to spot by the smoke or noise. Some owners managed to go around the clock without touching the motor but that's the exception rather than the rule.
130 horses means a true 160mph, which is fast any way you want to look at it - the engine's just getting into its fierce acceleration at the ton in top gear! 130mph cruising on autobahns is no great hassle, though you have to make sure the suspension, bearings and tyres are in good shape.
Consumables are a laugh a minute whenever the throttle's used in anger (expensive tyres in 3000 miles, pads in 5000 miles, 35mpg) and means the bike's a bit of a joke as a tourer (unlike certain bike journo's it's not possible to have a bloody big van trailing along behind full of tyres) - speeding's all that makes any sense.
As most of them perversely ended up as tourers, chances are the suspension and brakes will need upgrading but at least the engine's likely to be sound. Buy one for two grand and spend another £500 sorting it out.
Kawasaki ZX-10
Like the CBR1000, the ZX-10 can be a perilous perch in the wet. There's so much vital power at the end of the throttle, a moment's inattention will have the back wheel wagging like a dog, and some curiosity of the steering geometry leaves even the front wheel prone to sudden slides. MZ riders take great delight in killing dead these kind of big Japs in the wet!
That aside, the ZX-10's a fierce old thing on the open road. Loads of kicks, a feeling of the brutality from the excess of horses that contrasts strongly with the sheer civility of the CBR. Handling's manageable rather than outstanding, but it'll go where it's pointed given a bit of muscle and a fearless nature. The mixture of 125 horses and 510lbs was wild back in 1989; still does wonders on modern roads.
Engines can be surprisingy tough, running to 75000 miles with nothing more than the odd service. There are exceptions to this good news, which seem to suffer from both transmission and top end faults, usually when they've been run on the same oil for a long time. Vibration at high revs and transmission lash at the bottom end of the rev range were normal. Huge gaps in the powerband occurred when either the carbs wore out or the exhaust rots.
A smooth, quiet, free flowing engine's a sure sign of a motor in decent shape. Kawasaki gearboxes of this era were often notchy but only had lots of missed changes after high mileages or neglect of the oil. Camchains and camshaft lobes are the most likely areas of engine demise. Also, the ignition units often blow when some wear and hence vibration afflicts the engine.
The chassis is another matter. The susceptibility to damage from wet weather crashes, means bent forks, wheels and frame are all too common. Back street bodges abound. Luckily, if that's the right word, such bodges usually turn up in queasy handling, though the more desperate vendor will try to excuse such bad behaviour as being down to dying tyres or suspension. Aged brakes are often suspect, as well.
The really good ZX-10's go for three grand but £2000 to £2500 will buy a tatty example with a sound motor.
Suzuki GSXR 750/1100
Mad race replicas, both, the smaller bike has a rotten riding position and comfort levels on a par with the rack. This kind of money buys one of the early models, which means light weight, prodigious power and handling that will make a Z900 look saintly, not least because they can both do a 150mph.
As far as speed goes, these are close to kings of the road. The most popular mod, usually after a crash, is to tear the plastic off and fit proper handlebars. This does a lot to improve the comfort (which can be transformed with a non-standard saddle) and makes the bikes a real ball everywhere other than the motorway.
The motor's as likely to be as rough as the chassis, for this kind of money, but a lot of the mods are likely to be welcome (suspension, brakes, etc). Watch out for crap electrics and cracks in either the frame or wheels from ageing, bashed, alloy.
The GSXR series has been justly popular for years and there are plenty of old examples on offer. Very few are anywhere near immaculate but most of them have some life left it them and few other bikes can take them under duress. Not even later models of the GSXR's, as they became heavier and tamer. Fast times, indeed!
Yamaha FZ750
The FZ750 had a passing popularity in its day, as any 100hp machine did in the mid eighties. It was largely killed off by the sheer supremacy of the hot 600 replicas and the minor fact that the styling was dated. None of these factors limit its uses as a cheap means of speed (though high insurance has to be taken into account).
The engine's the best feature of the machine, a 20 valve, DOHC four that was built to the highest of standards - those used relatively mildly have done the 100,000 miles blues; though the gearbox degenerates to a level that would have a sixties Honda owner screaming for help. But that kind of nastiness never stopped BMW selling thousands of machines; practice makes perfect.
Or maybe not, as selector wear and cog break-up can bring the whole ship to a premature halt (but not before 60,000 miles). Similarly, burnt out clutches result from wheelie flagellation, or merely old age when the plates can also warp. There are some machines that still run with a mere three or four gears and an almost useless clutch, so make sure you check the gearbox action thoroughly.
That just shows that the motor had quite a lot of bottom end torque as well as the obligatory top end blitz of power. Unlike the 600's, which can be a bit on the bland side, the FZ's hot enough to have scintillation as its middle name and pull arms out of sockets.
The chassis is relatively old tech, with a disturbing resemblance to the square section tubular trellis in the GPZ500. In 1985 it received rave reviews but in reality it was the usual pile of lies, the bike only handling excellently in respect to its 500lbs of mass. Though never dangerous in an outrageous manner, when pushed to its limits svelte 600's come past on the inside.
Major improvements can be wrought by upgrading the suspension, especially after 30,000 mile when wear makes them as floppy as some seventies horror. The brakes are equally nasty, mostly down to crap calipers, which pick up on road debris, though the odd disc has been known to crack up! The front end off something more modern becomes almost obligatory after the first 60,000 miles. Also, check the back of the crankcases for damage from broken chains, a not unknown calamity on aged examples
Availability of tackle within the £2000 to £2500 price range is good. The problem comes from finding one that hasn't been thrashed to hell and back, or even raced. Comfort, mainly from the seat, limits its appeal as a tourer and thus the chance of buying one off a mature owner. They can take the odd tarmac bashing without breaking up and it's relatively difficult to hide the effects of serious damage, making it one of the easier machines to check over.
Though there are bikes under £2000, they tend to be so rough and need so much work that it's better to pay more for something relatively decent or look at a different model. A good one offers excellent speed for the bucks, a bike that ridden with a little elan can give both 600's and 1000's a run for their money. Cool!
Kawasaki GPz1100
Like all the GPz four cylinder range, the 1100 started out as a twin shocker with inadequate suspension, questionable steering geometry and way too much mass. This is what's known as fun, fighting some huge brute through the curves with 120 horses exploding out of an engine that always had enough secondary vibes to make it feel like the real thing. 150mph on such a device was always precarious as sudden bumps or changes of direction could have the plot all over the road. The violence of the reaction was akin to a tyre blowing.
The usual round of chassis mods, that very definitely include adding new chassis bearings, helps but the basic tubular trellis still ain't up to ultimate madness. For this reason don't bother with examples that are heavily tuned, as the mill was the least reliable of this series of Kawasaki fours - the top end going first, but crankshafts reduced to interesting pieces of sculptures ain't unknown (don't buy anything with the slightest of knocking noises). The clutch is also a touch on the weak side.
Whilst the Uni-trak version tamed the worst of the handling insanities, though it couldn't be called good handling, the fuel injectors added a new and disturbing area of mechanical and electronic debilitation. The slightest of misfires can presage an expensive round of black box replacement (which can also go if their rubber mounting hardens enough to allow the secondary vibes to destroy them). Worse still, there ain't any improvement in economy nor smoother running.
The mass and power gives the Uni-trak back end a very hard time, something also transmitted to the swinging arm bearings. The slightest of wear ruins the handling, bringing in some fierce speed wobbles. Even more harrowing, the smallest of movements quickly causes massive wear in the bearings, so rapidly that the bike can become almost unrideable over a mere fifty miles. Grease every six months and check every month.
Handling and electronics aside, the big Kawasaki goes like an Exocet missile and has more credibility than the current crop of retro's. Two grand buys something with loads of life left, reasonable cosmetics, sensible chassis mods and, er, a loud four one exhaust that will blow rivals away.
Suzuki GSX1100
Another old multi in the same mould as the Kawasaki, the GSX1100 comes in the same twin and mono shock variants, though the former ain't quite so suicidal once the suspension has been upgraded. The GSX was often persuaded into tourer mode, which given the rate of consumable demise was rather odd but half the appeal of motorcycles has to do with their machoness rather than practicality.
Those completely and utterly bored with modern life can indulge a spot of fast riding on worn suspension and tyres. Whether they will survive the vicious wobbles to tell the tale will be a moot point.
The engine's a touch tougher than the GPz, high miles rather than any chronic faults causing its demise - it's hard to point at any particular area; the camchain, for instance, can last for twice as long as the GPz1100's. The outer alloy's really crap, most owners who care have the cases bead-blasted. Overall finish is a good indication as to how the bike's been treated, they can make rat status in a remarkably short time if neglected. Brakes, exhaust and even the petrol tank are all quick rot.
Overall appearance may not be outstanding, for that you have to look at the 1000 and 1100cc Katana, which fetch £500 to £1000 more than the standard bike merely on the back of their odd shape, though they do offer an extra 10hp and 10mph (145mph against 135mph).
The vast majority of Kat's are still in excellent shape. A cynic might suggest that this is because it's such an uncomfortable beast that few are ridden far! Or that the way the power hits the back wheel discourages riding in the wet. More likely it's because the extreme shape has such devoted owners that they put in the effort to keep them going.
Whilst not totally devoid of the speed wobble horrors, most of the handling nastiness can be damped out with a decent set of rear shocks. Worth taking some effort, as the engines can run around the clock with less than regular maintenance and it's rare for them to break before 75000 miles.
If the Kat's can be found in nice condition, the stock bikes are somewhere between rat-mobiles and well run in veterans. Some have survived many owners, an excess of abuse and a mountain's worth of neglect. Others have had a relatively easy life as a tourer (though check that oil has been changed regularly as it goes off quickly in town).
Yamaha FJ1100
The XS1100 was one of the most malicious of the big fours, its transmutation into the FJ was almost miraculous. The excess of torque, sufficient to pull a caravan up the steepest of hills, remained unchanged but the wrap-around frame gave the bike a solid, secure feel only limited by a lack of ground clearance.
Perhaps because the bike could be flogged along so relentlessly, without the usual off-road excursions, some engines were in serious trouble by 50,000 miles. Both from valvegear or piston demise and gearbox implosion (perhaps some of the components were sourced from the XS750/850). Neither were knocking cranks, some ten thousand miles later, unknown. That said, those confined to a touring role could rumble along for over a 100,000 miles.
If the frame was impressive, the brakes, suspension and even the wheels could go off with age. Very careful checking's needed of these components on machines with over 75000 miles on the clock. Also, the O-ring chain can often snap due to neglect (it's one hell of a job to pull the swinging arm out to change it).
FJ1200's are also available in this price range, and very nice they are, too. They are no faster, at 150mph, but have even more of that nice torque - it really can pick up pillions and chuck them off the back. The engine's tougher and the gearbox's a bit slicker, more a matter of minor design evolution than any fundamental changes.
That makes buying an old one even safer than the 1100. As there are some really neat examples of each model on offer, refuse to pay serious money for those that have been run into the ground and are on their last legs. Quite a few ended up in breakers, from the 550lbs catching out the front wheel when shod with Jap rubber, but a bent frame's fairly obvious and at least there are plenty of engine spares available.
Kawasaki GPZ500
This little twin has lots going for it - an amazing turn of speed (125mph), light weight and easy availability. Its major flaw lies in the sixteen inch front wheel (replaced with a seventeen incher in 1974), which can whip away suddenly on diesel or oil. No warning whatsoever, wham bam, thank you mam, the next thing you know is the bad old tarmac rash. This is most true on the Japlop the factory fitted as stock, but whilst Avons or Michelins help they can still be a touch precarious. Basically, if it's fitted with the Jap tyre, factor in the cost of its immediate replacement.
The other problem with the GPz is the speed with which the finish can go off. It's a bit disturbing to find that most of the fasteners come out in the rust rash after a ride in the rain. Also, the cam lobes can wear if the oil changes are neglected - the oil emulsifies so badly in town that the oil level hole's totally obscured by white muck. Camchain rattle also intrudes around 30,000 miles on thrashed bikes - note, that engine noise is much amplified by the plastic.
Despite the aforementioned front wheel foibles, general handling's close to excellent and far from dangerous, lacking the usual twitchiness of sixteen inch wheel bikes and benefiting from both low mass and centre of gravity. Two-up work stresses the suspension, as does three years worth of abuse.
Braking isn't really limited by the single disc and it was totally mad of them to put a disc on the back of '94 models in place of the excellent drum.
Despite being a mere 500c twin, it's quite happy cruising at well over ton, helped along by a useful half fairing. Vibration's largely subdued by the combination of an 180 degree crankshaft and a gear driven balancer (the only way to do it, as other set-ups lead to massive absorption of power and more vibes).
Lacking only the more extreme delights of arm wrenching, wheelie popping acceleration, the GPZ's more than enough to lose the driving licence several times over. They are available cheaply, from a grand upwards, but they don't represent a bargain at that price - the cosmetics will be in a terrible state and the engine left parlous after too much throttle excess.
Much better to look for something around the £2000 mark with less than twenty thou on the clock (well looked after engines can run for over 75000 miles) and nice cosmetics. Try to avoid ones that have an excess of owners or signs of crash damage (they can survive minor slides almost unscathed).
Grey Replicas
A whole mythology has grown up around the 250/400cc race replicas unofficially imported from Japan. Often, compared to things like the GPZ500, they are lacking in kicks and speed, as well as having suspension and riding positions set up for diminutive Jap's.
Initially, their main selling point was reasonable prices for nearly new machines that were barely run in by Japanese riders who only ran them for a year as pose machines. Recently, the increase in the yen means they have almost been priced out of the market and any apparent bargain in a dealer's showroom is quite likely to be either clocked or an example of the art of straightening crashed and bashed motorcycles.
Used examples in the private market are quite common, but a rather mixed bag. It's dead easy to buy something on its last legs or just about ready to need serious expense. Though the spares situation is by no means dire it can be expensive. Sources of spares are from direct imports of new stuff, breaking of imports crashed in Japan and the usual dubious stuff from the UK (either stolen or crashed). A few parts are common to UK models. Even relatively simple things like batteries can cost truly silly money (£75 plus). Thus it's best to avoid imports at the cheaper end of the price range; they can turn out ruinously expensive.
Of this plethora of imports, a couple stand out as worthy of note, for which £2000 plus buys a reasonable example. The GSXR250, in recent editions, sings along in a splendid if eerie way, handles the curves with ease and looks well flash. Running an engine at 20,000 revs may appear dangerous but 30 to 40,000 miles is possible. A mere 120mph top end, though, doesn't makes for any better value for money than the riding position makes for an excess of comfort.
Slightly more subtle, the CBR250, has more torque but handles slightly less well in its latest model, although the comfort is slightly greater. Earlier bikes, stretching right back to the Aero, are more use in the mixed riding representative of in the UK but not so hot on the speed front. There is tuning potential in both these makes, as they are artificially restricted for the Japanese market.
The 400cc version of the Honda's just as high tech, with such delights as the Gull-arm rear end and upside-down front forks. It's also appreciably faster with no loss of handling finesse, whilst retaining relatively useful torque below, er, 12 grand. The only downside, if you're crazy for these kind of race replicas, is that for £2500 it's difficult to find a nice one.
End Note
There are other ways of going fast cheaply. It's even possible to get 130mph out of a sixties British twin if you're into masochism. The thing with speed is that once experienced the usual reaction is to want more. 150mph's a kind of mad high but in the end still merely a prelude to going faster still. As some of more expensive superbikes age, 175mph should soon be possible on a budget ...then what?