France, Spain, Italy? Are they getting a bit tame - like riding down to the supermarket? Relay, plus dealers all over - where's the challenge? That's what I thought last year so I decided to go for the big one. Let's do the Grand Tour of Europe and see places that no-one knows. Where to aim for - that's easy - Latvia! Why? A mate lives there. When? High summer - it's covered in snow for half the year. Where is it? Opposite Finland, on the Baltic.
So planning started in May with a fax to NU. Can they insure me there and all the countries on the way? Sure they can. Being a gregarious sort I got two other lads in the FJ owners' club to come along (best place for cheap spares, top mechanic work and technical info, thanks Phil, only £15/year membership - here endeth the plug). They then asked about insurance and once more I faxed NU. Again, no sweat, I was told...more later.
We decided to ride across Holland, catching a night boat so an early start can be made. That's what happened - on August 1st we set off. Holland was just motorways, Germany was autobahns. We got near Berlin for night one, staying in an ex-commi apartment block turned hotel. No problems - except the Krauts don't have petrol stations on their motorways so fill up when you can.
The bikes settled into a steady 90mph mode - boring but it covers a lot of ground. Jeff's 1100 was the best on fuel - a tuned motor pulling higher gearing gave him an incredible 57mpg, but top speed only an indicated 130mph. Allan on a new model (3XW) made more than 46mpg, whilst my 3CV with wide Krausers around 44mpg. The different fairings and loads obviously affected performance as well but buy an 1100 for aerodynamics and economy.
Then came the great bit! Crossing over the border into Poland meant passing a twenty mile queue of trucks, mostly importing old bangers. We were waved across the border whilst the lorries waited for days. Bikers - they love us! Poland was expensive. Only four Zloty to a quid, and bars shut on Sundays. The roads are crap if you go on the main routes - too many heavy trucks, too little maintenance, but try the country roads. No traffic except horses and carts, easy 80mph cruising possible.
We rushed through but needed two nights in Poland before hitting Lithuania, which we loved for its 28p a litre unleaded. The border crossing here allowed us to ride through the VIP lane - a great feeling! Give the guards a wheelie, they like that! Finally, Latvia, just over the border a new section of road with 50kph speed limit. Have you ever managed 30mph on a new empty road?
So the plod pulled me and showed me a 72mph Vascar reading. Rubbish! My bike can't go that slow but luckily I don't understand Lat lingo, haven't got any local dosh (honest officer) and get let off. Yes, I know Vascar doesn't work on bikes but do you argue when they have guns? Later I learn that £2 is the going rate for bribes.
We cruised down to Riga and enter Heaven. This bit is a little sexist, but if any of the female readers object, tough. We park in the centre, where all the culture is outside that famous landmark, McDonalds, and ring Rupert, my mate. Before he arrived we are all struck blind staring at the Latvian lovelies. They are mostly blond with armpit long legs and they like bikers!
We get given the eye, smiled at and the bikes admired - learn quickly that in Latvia, bikers are special people. You see with only six months a year when you can ride, unless snow chains are fitted, to be affluent enough to afford a big bike means you are a rich capitalist bastard. Where did I put the comb and aftershave? We basked in admiration that blokes on FJ's don't usually get.
But the roads in Riga mean you don't usually watch the crumpet much when riding. The manholes are six inches below the cobblestones and the tram-lines need much eye-balling. Driving standards are reasonable - they have to be as they don't have third party insurance (we didn't have any, either, thanks NU) and you get used to seeing Lada's and Skoda's as the most affordable wheels. MOT's? Don't be silly!
So what else is there in Riga. Beautiful architecture if that's your bag. Beer £1 a litre, not pint. Petrol 30p a litre, £5 a full tank for the Yam. Great empty countryside, amazing beaches next to the flat Baltic to swim in, friendly locals who speak English, and food at £5 for a three course meal.
I went to a local bike club meet. Mostly choppers, Viragos, Urals and old BMW Boxers. The lads all like cruisers - understandable as there's a 90kph speed limit nationally but no speed competition, so why rush? The pillion pussies were amazing! I think the cold winters make them see who can wear the least when summer arrives - who's objecting!
I met a Latvian lass who enjoyed pillioning, showed me her country and best spots - yes, the best way to enjoy a country! After a week I had to go - my mates left earlier, something about jobs to go back to, so off I went via Crakow, to swin in the Adriatic. I won't bore you with Slovakia and Hungary, but tell you for riding mountains with a good surface and testing bends head for Croatia. No the war isn't on still and, yes, it is full of Germans enjoying the lovely Istrian Peninsula - I ended up at Porec, it was hot and the roads were superb. Then it was back across Italy and France.
What about the bike? I had to give it a chain oiling daily, the Scotoiler body rubbed itself away on the rear tyre. It got a bit hot in traffic - even with a ten row oil cooler fitted. The Michelin tyres (radial Macadams) lasted well - over 5600 miles on the back on this trip alone and it's fine. The front had about another 1000 miles to go, I reckon.
So that was it. Ten countries in about three weeks, 500 miles a day easy. The luggage didn't upset the handling until well over the ton. The Yam didn't miss a beat but I learnt that to tour best you need to bear the following in mind.
Money - get a couple of tankful's worth of local currency when you go East. The garages don't go in for plastic much. Plus bribe money is a useful stand-by. There's always a change bureau at the border. Police - if flashed, slow dramatically for the next two miles. They have to earn a living but not from you! Remember, never speak their language, just smile and offer lots of doc's that they won't understand.
Luggage - only take the minimum clothing - yes, take lightweight waterproofs that stash easily. You can buy local if you must. But take any special tools your bike needs - especially for chain adjusting. Plus a tyre repair kit. Take a spare lid if you want to enjoy a pillion's company - you can chain it on the seat so it doesn't move. Use a tank-bag - you can whip out a camera, passport or wallet without taking your lid off or parking.
Keep it all to a minimum and chat up any locals you meet - if you're lucky one will speak a bit of English and will be pleased to show you off to his mates. Remember, you're a novelty as will be your bike - so use it to your advantage!
Security - hard luggage's easy to secure, and carry into hotels, etc. It can be bought cheaply in winter - try advertising in your local Free Ads. I didn't lose a thing but a big padlock makes me feel better - I use a Chinese one that cost £5 and locks the rear sprocket to the chain. A keen thief would either have to lift the whole bike (an FJ, remember...) or grovel on the road under the silencer to cut/hammer it off, in the dark and wet...he would have to be keen!
So where next? I fancy Northern riding and aim next summer to see the north side of the Baltic. Like Norway, Sweden, Estonia and Latvia again (of course!). Anyone want to come?
Barry J Charman