Many
people say that the race replicas all look and go alike, but with this
quartet of nearly new drifters nothing could be further from the truth.
True, they all share four cylinder, DOHC motors and only the Suzuki
lacks watercooling, but even the way they spit out their power is
different. The chassis conform in that they are mostly covered in
plastic, but the riding position and levels of comfort are radically
different; as are the way they handle and use their weight - and there's
nearly 70lbs difference between the heaviest and the lightest.
The 600 category, at its best, combines litre bike performance with 500cc weight and handling. That’s a heady combination. What impinges most on any of these bikes is their versatility. They can cruise at the ton (or even more if you've a fake licence or number plate), hustle through narrow country bends and get well into the town madness. If they never quite have the panache of step-thrus in heavy traffic they make up for it in fantastic acceleration and wild wheelies (if that’s the way you want to take things).
With insane new prices it makes much more sense to buy a one or two year old bike on the private market, where depreciation rules and the classified pages of MCN are full of potential bargains. It’s best to avoid the convenience of dealers as if they had the plague; those bikes that are not overpriced are likely to be hastily rebuilt write-offs.
I recently, in the interests of this article, had an hour long argument with one West Country dealer over the price of a six month old CBR600. He didn’t seem to understand that I could go off to London to buy a discounted new one for the same money.
He waved a copy of another magazine under my nose, saying they reckoned there was such a shortage of new bikes that his price would be about right. This irresponsible nonsense probably explains why the UMG is completely devoid of adverts from the motorcycle trade. They hate this rag and its lack of bullshit. Anyway, Mr Dealer and I agreed to differ, avoided coming to blows over the matter.
Other dealers seemed in equally buoyant moods, reluctant to shift stock at reasonable prices, adding to the monetary carnage by offering HP deals with high interest rates - one even refused to confirm that the rates were fixed. The combination of dealer guarantee and easy monthly payments can be very tempting, but it can leave a pile of debts if there’s an accident or the bike is stolen.
There are bargains in the 600 market, as long as you're willing to turn up with the cash and take your chances with the engine longevity. Generally, these are tough motors which, even when neglected, won't give much hassle before 50000 miles. In order of toughness I'd put them down as FZR, CBR, ZZR and GSX. But that doesn’t mean too much, they are all way ahead of some of the turkeys brought to market in the seventies and eighties. The Japanese have perfected the art of making powerful four stroke fours that run and run even if regular maintenance sessions are ignored. It's an extremely unlucky purchaser who lands up with a recent Jap bike that gives engine problems.
The FZR600’s weakest points are its gearbox and clutch, both inherited from the Japanese market 400. The five valve heads are rock solid, not needing attention for tens of thousands of miles. When raced, the engine can throw its rods but road bikes will run to between 50 and 80000 miles before a combination of rattling camchain, worn bores and totally naff gearbox makes life difficult. There are plenty of bikes around that have been pushed past the 100000 mark and are not yet dead. Engines on the way out make some pretty obvious knocking or rattling noises (though, out of balance carbs can have a similar effect).
l owned an FZR for three months and 10000 miles. Did absolutely nothing to it save for an oil change and new set of consumables. It wouldn't be my first choice in town, the riding position was too single-minded for that, but it had a lovely wail and precise handling that made me yearn for its kicks after I sold it (because my finances had become desperate).
The CBR600 has a naff gearbox from new (the older models worse than the later ones) compared to the slick item in the Suzuki, but it doesn't actually get much worse with greater mileages. It all depends on what you're used to and the last bike you owned. Anyone used to old Hondas will find it very slick! Certainly, the one I owned had a box that could be adapted to and a brief dash on a very new one revealed much progress made, but still not perfect. One useful aspect, is that the change goes really rotten when the drive chain needs attention, so there’s never any point looking at it until the box tells you to.
The CBR will rattle its camchain before the others, at as low as 40000 miles but usually between 50 and 60000 miles. Most engines will run to 75000 miles without too much hassle, though those that are raced (and there are a disproportionate number that are) can start to wear out their crank bearings, bores and valves at much lower mileages. There are quite a few CBRs that had knackered motors by 40000 miles after race track abuse. Good motors in breakers are rare.
The ZZR600 and GXS600F seem to lack chronic faults but are bit more susceptible to rapid wear from lack of regular maintenance, the latter desperately needing its oil changed frequently and the former likely to wear its cams or valves if neglected. That said, they can both hit 50000 miles with regular servicing and do twice that with new camchain, tensioner and re-bore. I wouldn't turn down either of these bikes over worries on longevity but I’d listen very carefully for rattles, and on a motor with over 30000 miles use a compression tester.
All four bikes, because the mill is largely hidden by plastic, are susceptible to bodging by the more artful of back street dealers. I’ve seen some nearly new bikes that have obviously had their engines swapped with much older units, that had probably been thrashed on the race track or done more than 100000 miles.
I went to see a two year old FZR600
that looked splendid but made funny noises to my attuned ear and lacked
an edge to its acceleration. I was looking the bike over for a friend, a
recent 125 graduate who was all big-eyed and enthusiastic about the
Yam. I'd taken one look at the owner and thought no way, but the lad
took no notice of my protestations and insisted on handing over the full
price without even making a stab at negotiation. Within a week
he was around my house, whining about the large hole in his crankcase
from a crankshaft that had broken up. Upon examination, every bearing,
every gear
and every moving part was completely, comprehensively knackered. Of
course, the vendor denied everything, refused to consider a refund even
when threatened with being reported to the police and trading standards
office.
Make no mistake, as easy as these middleweight fours are to ride, they are extremely powerful devices that can get the unwary into lots of trouble. I'd suggest 125 graduates spend at least half a year on some 400 twin before trying for the real thing. The ZZR’s the newest design of this bunch with an-exceptional top speed of 160mph. It doesn’t so much as develop more power than the others but has a more effective fairing, using ram air intake to boost top end power and aid the way it cuts a swathe through the air. Stability is more impressive than flickability, only the hefty Suzuki being slower turning through the twisties. The ZZR, like the CBR, can easily be mistaken for their mammoth multis from a safe distance.
Those of large proportions will find either the ZZR or GSX the most comfortable, only lithe young things will find the FZR tolerable. Those of more normal dimensions will be overwhelmed by the naturalness of the CBR, the instant rapport achieved from its perfect ergonomics. The only complaint about the overall experience of the Honda is that it could do with a bit more sensation from the engine and a touch more feedback from the chassis. But, that’s a minor quibble.
The dimensions of the ZZR are such that it has a bigger bike, more relaxed feel than the others, definitely the better long distance, motorway cruiser. That's not to say, in any way, that it’s boring. The prodigious power output, all the way from tickover to 14000 revs, give a scintillating ride in any of the six gears. The Honda needs more gearbox work to keep up. The 1993 ZZR model is appreciably better than earlier efforts with regard to power output and transmission smoothness, although hints of the drive-line snatch in earlier models remain. Fuel averages 45mpg, though as much as 55mpg is possible, giving a range of over 170 miles.
The CBR600 is never very far behind the ZZR in power (both claim 100 horses from the later models) but is an altogether sharper, lighter package that combines an excellent integrated design with easy steering and good comfort. Only right at the top end of the performance envelope does it lose out to the ZZR, running out of steam at 150mph, earlier models not much use for more than 145mph. If I had to chose an old model of either of these two, I'd definitely go for the Honda, mileages being equal. It’s easier to adapt to the Honda’s gearbox than it is to put up with the lack of power in early ZZR's.
The Honda's lighter feel more than makes up for the mostly theoretical disadvantage in power in recent models, the Honda coming out as the most versatile of the bunch as well as the most popular in terms of sales. The most natural riding position makes up for slightly substandard suspension (that really begins to show its lack of mettle after 20000 miles) and allows the bike to eat up the miles with BMW-like ease. Fuel economy is between 40 and 50mpg, range around 160 miles
The FZR600, by contrast, is the automatic head-bangers choice, with its race track inspired riding position and minimalist fairing (that does more damage than good in typically British wet weather), although none of these four give exceptional wet weather protection (the ZZR just edging out the CBR for honours). A few more inches of plastic all round would be most welcome in any of these fours.
The weird thing about the Yam is that its 20 valve engine is the friendliest of the bunch, having more torque at low revs even if there’s such a lack of outright power that it'd only do 140mph. But 90 horses and less than 400lbs dry, even in 1994, should not be dismissed. Many a hard ridden FZR has shocked the others into submission on curvy roads.
The gearbox is fine with less than 25000 miles on the clock, but after than worn selectors and even gears missing their teeth begin to make life very unpleasant. The key to gearbox longevity is very simple frequent oil and filter changes. The thing is that the rest of the motor runs so well that it’s ridiculously easy to neglect such basic maintenance and think that you'll get away with it. The suspension is the most basic of the bunch, the brakes the shortest lived but the integration of the Deltabox frame and canted forward engine the best of the four, despite it being around for over six years. The lack of mass gives the suspension that much less to do and the massive rigidity of the frame keeps the handling in check.
The general delinquency of FZR riders combined with relatively short-lived chassis components, makes the Yamaha the most dubious buy when too many years and miles are involved. Complete novices should take an experienced rider with them when checking out these bikes, as mentioned it’s all too easy to become impressed with their performance even when they are off-tune or worn out.
There’s nothing really wrong with the GSX600F, other than that it can’t compete on equal terms with the others. Too heavy, too mildly tuned and too poorly styled to make much impression other than in its relative cheapness, both new and used. Compared with older fours, even 750s, there’s absolutely nothing wrong with it. The venerable oil cooled engine works exceptionally well in GSXR, cafe racer format, but de-tuned it seems to have loss all its balls and purpose. The RF600F will doubtless make it obsolete.
However, as a practical means of transport, the GSX has a lot going for it if you can ignore the looks and don’t expect to exceed its 135mph top speed. Both suspension and brakes are more than adequate, whilst handling if entirely lacking the sporting edge of the CBR and FZR is never, even on well worn tyres, of the frightening variety. Fuel hovers around 50mpg and range around 180 miles.
Running cost are never cheap on these kinds of vehicles, mainly because they demand expensive tyres which rarely last more than 6000 miles; you won't get much more out of brake pads as the bikes encourage cut and thrust riding that sizzles the discs. O-ring chains of the expensive variety will go for more than 10000 miles but expect less than half that when cheap chains are employed.
The Yamaha wears out both calipers and discs with tedious regularity (expect chronic trouble after 15000 miles). The Honda's calipers will start seizing during English winters after the first couple of years, whilst the discs will start to thin come 30000 miles. The ZZR shouldn't give trouble until after 20000 miles when it'll be the calipers rather than the discs. The Suzuki's brakes seem to work well until 30000 miles when they start to give more trouble than the others. Preventative measures, like doing a caliper strip and clean every pad change, greatly enhances brake life.
All four use single shock rear ends, with linkages,
shafts and bearings that need a strip and grease every year. Given a
regular dose of attention they will all last well. The Yamaha's bearings
are most susceptible to wear when neglected, closely followed by the
Kawasaki, but after 25000 miles, if not maintained, they are all going
to be very expensive trouble, although robbing nearly new bits from
crashed bikes in breakers is usually a viable option. Too many
impressionable youngsters, with more enthusiasm than experience tend to get hold of these 600s; promptly proceeding to write them off, if not kill themselves in the process.
The Yamaha and Honda have the weakest of rear shocks, that’ll need an upgrade after two years or if a large passenger is carried. The other models are not much better, but it's possible to carry on for a lot longer than that with the OE suspension if you can ignore the weaves and slight wobbles. They all benefit from a fork brace and turning the suspension up to their higher settings once much more than 20000 miles are on the clock.
The Honda has always had the best fit and finish, although the latest Kawasakis run it a close second. Misaligned panels may be the result of a crash. Early ZZR’s were susceptible to surface rust on fasteners and water running inside the plastic, which could have interesting effects on the electrics. The FZR will crack up its plastic at high miles and the GSX is susceptible to alloy corrosion and rust (the frame paint seems to fall off after two years).
Signs of cracked plastic around the mounting holes might be less evidence of high mileage than inept servicing, some gorilla of a mechanic or DIY addict tearing off the fairing to get at the engine only to find that the only way to fit it back on is with the aid of a big hammer. Minor falls can do a lot of expensive damage to all of these bikes.
None of these engines really benefit from 4-1 replacement exhausts, other than losing a few pounds in mass and saving some dosh. They'll all last for about three years before the baffles start rattling. Where possible, buy a stainless steel Motad, as jet changes aren't needed and it eliminates any future rusting problems, useful if you’re planning on keeping a bike for the long term. None runs well on rusted out exhausts, with the ZZR and FZR more susceptible to ruined carburation than the others.
They all sport electronic ignition of a complex make-up that should never need any attention in the life of the bikes. That’s the theory, anyway. Very high mileage CBRs and FZRs will burn out their ignition pick-ups whilst ZZR_ black boxes are more robust than the old GPZ series but still slightly susceptible to vibration (but only at the kind of mileages when it’s more likely the engine will blow up). Any defect in the electronics will be immediately apparent in either the engine cutting out or refusing to run at all.
The GSX has a robust ignition system but I’ve come across one bike that was doing the old GS trick of burning out batteries and blowing fuses.I'd say this is the exception rather than the rule on these models but I'd certainly have a look at the battery and check the wiring over to see if there have been any alterations.
Not the kind of problem I'd get paranoid over.
Any of these bikes that are genuinely low mileage is worth buying. For those on a strict budget the GSX600F is the obvious choice, with reasonable bikes available for as little as £1500. Performance is more than adequate for UK roads, with as much as 120mph cruising available, albeit with a bit of a secondary buzz from the motor. With the Suzuki, it all comes down to whether you can take the appearance - I can't, stuck with that kind of money I'd go for an older four with more classic looks. Still, these are bargains buys. : Two grand is the minimum amount of dosh needed for a reasonable FZR600. The engine and frame are brilliant, the riding position laughable and the suspension a bit rotten at the kind of age and mileage this sort of money buys. Chances are, though, that by then it'd have some much needed mods. If you can live with the lack of comfort (or modify the bike) then buy one.
The Honda’s slightly cheaper than the Kawasaki, with prices starting at £2500 rather than £3000 for useable stuff. With that edge I'd go for the Honda without any serious reservations, at least for UK riding. For really high speed, long distance comfort the ZZR edges ahead, especially if you’re on the large side.
Dick Lewis